![]() Again, these plugs are tight and a perfect fit. You put your 1/4" connectors into the holes of the feed line, in this case they came with the drippers. Figure out how many drippers you need and punch holes into the feedline at an even distance. The T's and Elbows are totally drip-proof. I got some fasteners to nail it to the floor. It rolls right back up when straightend which is a pain in the ass. The feed line comes rolled up and is very hard to straighten. I placed two lines between the 4 rows of buckets (1 line for 2 rows) via one t and one elbow connector. One side goes back to the res for mixing and pressure adjustment via a shut-off valve, the other side goes to the feed-line, also with a shut-off valve in between. I screwed a T- piece to the top to split the output. (Risers only come male/male and the pump's output is also always male). A 1' riser is connected to the output via a female/female adapter. I use a MAG-drive pump with a rate of 250gph (Gallons per Hour) The pump is placed in the reservoir (or outside if you want to use the pump in-line). Now that the drain system is established we have to worry abut the feeding of the plants. After all, your girls' food will run through those pipes. Rinse very well and let them be for at least a day before using. Take the time to wash them with a bleach solution to sterilize everything. One more important point about the PVC pipes: They are dirty when you buy them. ($0.50 - $2 a piece) Make sure you get PVC Primer and PVC Cement to make sure they are leak-proof. You will of course have to figure out how many T-fittings and elbows you'll need to construct the drain pipe. I've seen PVC structures, tables and the common "sawhorse" set-up. ![]() If your reservoir is in the same room, you'll have raise the buckets so gravity can do it's thing. I just put a slight angle on it by raising the long side of the pipes about 2" and the downward pipe that leads to the reservoir about 1". Since in this set-up, the reservoir is 2' lower than the system, it's easy to drain. Here's the layout, assembled in the room. The buckets are the same just a different color. The next pisture shows how the bato drain-plug fits into the PVC pipe. This way, the water always siphons out from the bottom and never leaves stale water in the bucket. Two elbows are combined for one drain fitting. Here's the bato bucket, you can see the reservoir. Now drill out holes for the bucket-drains. A 3/4" drill bit would be enough but I went a bit larger. I used pruning scissors to get a little groove into the PVC, so the drill bit would grip right away. 10' PVC pipe cost's less than $4 and they will cut it for you to size at Home Depot.įirst we measure and mark our PVC pipe where the hole for the drains will be drilled. ![]() The batos are designed to be drained by 1 1/2" PVC pipe, which means the drains plug right into the pipe which in turn stabilizes the bucket. The rows are 20" on center which fits the footprint of the 1K light and reflector I'm using. ![]() You can space them wider or closer, depending on how long you're planning to veg. ![]() In this FAQ, we build a 16 bucket system. This is a grand total of $191.02! Pretty good savings if you ask me.įirst you'll have to measure your space and decide how many buckets you will want to use. MAG Pump: $30, but smaller pump would do. 50' $11įeedline Links: $0.70 - $1.50 T, Elbow, shut-off valves, riser, endcaps 7 x misc. 8x $1 $ 8įeedline: $11 for 50', can also be bought in 10' for less than $5. The other big advantage over other drip systems like tube, tubbler or slab set-ups is that the plants are in individual containers that can be moved around, plus the (almost) 3 gallon container provides enough space for the root-mass. Bato buckets have a 2l (about 1/2 Gallon) reservoir built in, that works as a wick system if nothing comes from above. ![]()
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